Collagen for beauty

Shahnaz Husain

Collagen comes from the Greek word kolla, meaning ‘glue’, which forms the structural basis for the skin, nails, hair, bones, cartilage, and blood vessels.

Collagen is a group of 28 substances – collectively referred to as ‘collagen’ for ease – and is the most abundant protein in mammals, making up about 30% of the body’s total protein content. 

Collagen makes up 70% of your skin’s dry weight. In an average 80-kg body, that’s around 4kg of pure collagen.

It’s the primary structural protein in the extracellular matrix – a support network of proteins, sugars, and other components – and plays a vital role in the body’s connective tissues, including your skin, bones, cartilage, tendons, and ligaments.

Collagen is the skin's main structural protein, responsible for the plump, smooth complexion characteristic of teens and young adults.  Collagen banking means stimulating the production of the protein before it declines.

Collagen banking is a proactive, long-term skincare strategy to stimulate and preserve a peak collagen matrix while your body remains efficient at producing it.

Think of it a bit like a savings plan that allows you to invest in your skin’s elasticity. The earlier you make efforts to preserve your collagen, the better.

It aims to maintain the skin’s hydration, elasticity, and overall strength for a longer time when our natural supply inevitably depletes in later years, roughly around the forties.

There are five main types of collagens in the body.  The most abundant form of collagen is Type I, which constitutes over 90% of the organic mass in bones and about 80% of human skin. Type I builds skin, bones, tendons, and ligaments. Type II helps to make cartilage, the flexible tissue between bones and in your ears and nose. Type III helps create muscles and blood vessels. Type IV helps in the layers of your skin. Type V helps in the cornea of your eyes, some layers of skin, hair and tissue of the placenta.

 Collagen production peaks in your mid-twenties before declining approximately 1per cent to 1.5 per cent due to the natural ageing process per year after the age of 25.  Besides age, it accelerates with sunlight, smoking, stress, and lack of sleep.

It is easier to maintain existing collagen than to rebuild lost collagen later in life.

Ultraviolet radiation from the sun is categorised into three types: UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVA and UVB rays penetrate deeply into the skin, where collagen is found. This can cause oxidative stress and activate enzymes that break down collagen

Solar UV irradiation causes photoaging, characterised by fragmentation and reduced production of type I collagen fibrils that provide strength to skin.

Many of the chemicals in cigarette smoke can damage the skin, which can make the skin sag and wrinkle. Smoking decreases collagen production.  levels by accelerating its breakdown and inhibiting new production, leading to premature ageing, saggy skin, and deep wrinkles. Nicotine constricts blood vessels near your skin’s surface, reducing nutrient and oxygen delivery to the skin, while over 4,000 chemicals in smoke damage elastin and collagen.

Smoking decreases the synthesis rates of type I and III collagens in skin in vivo and alters the balance of extracellular matrix turnover in skin.

 smoking impairs the skin’s ability to repair itself because it promotes the production of an enzyme called metalloproteinase (MMPs), responsible for breaking down collagen in the skin and causing it to sag

The toxins in tobacco can decrease blood flow to skin cells, reduce moisture in the dermis, and break down collagen and elastin, causing wrinkles.

Sugar causes the fibres to cross-link and tangle. This makes your skin less elastic over time.  High sugar intake decreases collagen levels through a process called glycation.

 a natural chemical reaction which happens when sugar levels in the bloodstream spike beyond what our insulin can handle. 

Refined sugars and high-fructose corn syrup have the most significant impact on glycation. These ingredients are commonly found in:  Soft drinks, energy drinks, and sweetened juices. Biscuits, cakes, and processed snacks. Flavoured yoghurts and cereals. Sauce.  Excessive sugar can break down collagen, leading to premature ageing; this is particularly bad if you’re older than 30.

This damage accelerates skin ageing, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and reduced skin elasticity.

 The collagen is also lower in quality when you cross 40.  Women experience a significant reduction in collagen production after menopause. Studies show that during the first 5 years of menopause, there is a decrease of up to 30% of collagen, and it can also be seen that during the following 15 years, the decrease is greater than at younger ages, with a reduction of 2% of collagen.

 When collagen drops, you may experience symptoms such as joint pain, stiff tendons or ligaments. Your muscles may weaken. You could also have papery, saggy, and wrinkly skin.

The ideal age to start collagen banking is in your mid-20s, and well into your 30s. But it's never too late to begin:

 Starting early can help you maintain your skin's elasticity and firmness as you age. 

 This can be as simple as avoiding sunbathing, tanning beds and using a quality SPF year-round.

Vitamin C:

Vitamin C is a crucial cofactor in the biosynthesis of collagen.Intake of around 250 mg of vitamin C  daily stimulates collagen production at a cellular level, enhancing skin firmness, reducing fine lines, and protecting against UV-induced damage.Vitamin C aids the function of two enzymes – prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase – that stabilise and cross-link collagen fibres.

Applying a vitamin C serum daily can help protect existing collagen from damage and support the production of new collagen. The body, however, does not store vitamin C, so we recommend cultivating a habit of consuming Vitamin C daily.

Collagen serum

It is a formula that combines ingredients that work together to promote collagen production.It’s important to clarify that collagen serum does not contain actual collagen, but it instead encourages your skin to produce more collagen, therefore helping you to appear younger. Collagen serum helps to restore elasticity, skin hydration and brightness.

The best anti-ageing collagen serums containCollagen peptides, Vitamin C, Retinol or retinyl palmitate and  Hyaluronic acid.

Applying broad-spectrum SPF, antioxidants, and peptides, along with proper nutrition, supplements, exercise, healthy living, and professional treatments, helps protect the skin and gently stimulates collagen production every day. This daily routine forms the foundation of collagen banking.